Wifi Not Working On Phone But Working On Other Devices

If your phone won’t connect to Wi-Fi while everything else works, these expert-tested fixes will get you online fast. Learn the exact iPhone/Android settings and router tweaks that solve the most common compatibility and signal issues.

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Wifi Not Working On Phone But Working On Other Devices

Phone Won’t Connect to Wi-Fi (But Other Devices Do)? 12 Quick Fixes

If your phone’s Wi-Fi isn’t working but every other device is fine, the issue is usually phone-side settings, a band/standard mismatch, or a stale connection profile. Use this step-by-step checklist to quickly restore your connection on iPhone or Android without calling your ISP.

Fast Checklist (Do These First)

  1. Toggle Airplane Mode (10 seconds) → Off.

  2. Turn Wi-Fi off/on on your phone.

  3. Reboot phone and router (power router off 20–30 seconds).

  4. Forget the network and rejoin (Settings ▶ Wi-Fi ▶ tap network ▶ Forget ▶ re-enter password).

  5. Move within 10–15 feet of the router to rule out weak signal/interference.

Complete Fixes (with Why They Work)

  1. Confirm you’re on the right network & password
    Many homes have 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz SSIDs (e.g., Home_2G vs Home_5G). Wrong SSID or a saved typo causes instant failures.

  2. Disable “Private/Random MAC” and re-join
    Some routers with access control/block lists reject randomized MACs.

    • iPhone: Settings ▶ Wi-Fi ▶ ⓘ ▶ Private Wi-Fi Address off → Reconnect.

    • Android: Wi-Fi ▶ Network ▶ Advanced ▶ Privacy/MAC ▶ Use device MAC → Reconnect.

  3. Reset network settings on the phone
    Clears corrupt profiles/DNS.

    • iPhone: Settings ▶ General ▶ Transfer or Reset ▶ Reset Network Settings.

    • Android: Settings ▶ System ▶ Reset options ▶ Reset Wi-Fi, mobile & Bluetooth.

  4. Update phone OS & router firmware
    Compatibility bugs are common (WPA2/WPA3, DFS channels, 802.11ax/“Wi-Fi 6” quirks). Install the latest updates, then reboot both.

  5. Switch bands (2.4 GHz ⇄ 5 GHz)
    Older phones may struggle with 5 GHz/DFS channels; very new phones may prefer 5 GHz/6 GHz. Try the other band or give each band a unique SSID so you can choose.

  6. Temporarily change Wi-Fi security to WPA2-PSK
    Some phones balk at WPA3-only or mixed modes on certain routers. Test WPA2-PSK (AES); if it connects, keep WPA2 or try WPA2/WPA3 mixed.

  7. Turn off VPNs, Private Relay, or ad-block DNS apps
    Connection brokers can break captive portals or first-time logins.

  8. Set DNS manually (test with 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8)
    If DHCP gives a bad DNS, your phone looks “offline.” Manually set DNS in the Wi-Fi network’s Advanced settings, reconnect, and test.

  9. Disable router “Smart Connect”/band steering (as a test)
    Band steering can loop certain phones between bands. Give each band a distinct SSID and join the stronger one.

  10. Check for MAC filtering / parental controls
    Ensure your phone’s MAC isn’t blocked or paused in the router app/admin page.

  11. Change Wi-Fi channel & width
    Crowded channels cause timeouts. Try channels 1, 6, or 11 at 20/40 MHz on 2.4 GHz; pick a lower-congestion channel on 5 GHz.

  12. Factory reset the router (last resort)
    Back up settings first. After reset, set a simple SSID/password, WPA2-PSK, and test with just the phone before restoring custom settings.


iPhone vs Android Pointers

  • iPhone: Also try disabling Limit IP Address Tracking and Low Data Mode for that SSID; re-test.

  • Android: In the network’s IP settings, toggle DHCP ⇄ Static (then back), or clear Carrier Services/Android System WebView cache if captive portals won’t load.


When It’s Probably the Router (Not Your Phone)

  • Other phones also fail to join, or only 1 band works.

  • Wi-Fi drops at the same distance/room every time.

  • Router is 5+ years old (no Wi-Fi 5/6 support), has frequent crashes, or lacks WPA2/AES stability.

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